Let Elitis take you to Milan. Picture strolling past modernist buildings created by such iconic architects as Ponti and Portaluppi. Then, across several new textile collections, explore themes inspired by the impossibly stylish city. In Alchimia, six graphic patterns vibrate with the geometric shapes and cheerful colors that characterized the Memphis movement of the 1980s. Combining boucle with chenille, wool with silk, and raffia with viscose, Ambienti’s five motifs feature truly tactile dimensionality. The subtle two-toned chenille of Bellezza brings softness and saturated color to wherever it’s placed, while Craft Chic captures the spirit of classic palazzos rendered even more beautiful by the passage of time. Liberating velvet from its monochromatic history, the three distinctive patterns of the Milano collection embrace contrasting lines and enigmatic architectural forms. Moda’s sophisticated satin jacquard incorporates a modern ikat motif. In two colorways, Monte Rose provides a dramatic abstraction of a mountain range on a cotton and linen ground. Presented in indigo or earth tones, the statement print of Patina’s jute fabric suggests traces of the painter’s brush—a fitting tribute to the rich artistic legacy of Italy.
Ariane Dalle, creative director for Elitis, recently discussed the inspiration behind the 2022 collections with Business of Home.
What’s the inspiration behind the new collection?
Italy, and specifically Memphis Milano, which in turn was inspired by the art deco and pop art movements. It was well known for the use of bright colors, geometric shapes and bold patterns. Two overarching, celebrated Italian themes inform the collection: first, the sweeping impudence and positive energy that defined the Memphis style. And second, the chic craftsmanship of old Italian palazzos, made even more beautiful by the patina of time.
How do you feel this collection pushes the brand forward?
When I took on the role of creative director for Elitis, one of the challenges I gave myself was to introduce collections that blend the hand-crafted with the machine-made. To do this we needed to explore innovative methods that would push the design techniques every season. It was evident in the cutouts and braiding of the last collection, and it can be seen throughout this collection in patterns such as Fausto, which combines jacquard velvet with satin enhanced by a lustrous viscose weft that encircles each pebble motif, giving the design a subtle contrast between matte and gloss. In Mario, a raffia warp is woven with a yarn-dyed boucle weft, then that fabric is overdyed. The raffia and boucle yarns react differently to the dye, resulting in an irregular rustic effect that is soft and elegant. Those are just two of countless examples throughout the collection.
What about the collection feels fresh and exciting?
The colors: They all bring to life the vivid world of the Memphis vibe and its free, nonconformist spirit. The graphics and texture—soft velvet, shiny satin, chenille, boucle and many others. The use of natural materials like linen, wool and jute, transformed into true masterpieces through cutting-edge combinations of techniques.
